Some fabrics have marked the history of workwear. The denim, is certainly the most famous and the legacy of the most relevant among the old work clothes. However, there are other fabrics very interesting in the recent past have not crossed the bridge for the wardrobe, male modern, at least not as it did to the jeans. One of these fabrics vintage is the wabash, an interesting alternative to replace the traditional shirt chambraia and the usual denim jackets.
The Wabash is a pattern of dotted made in fabrics dyed with indigo. By far, seem to stripes risca-de-giz, but up close can be quite creative in varied designs. It was common to see work clothes made with this fabric at the end of the century dezeno and the beginning of the twentieth century. The example often quoted is of the employees of the railway system of the United States.
Today, the Wabash, with the appearance of print vintage is played by some brands that specialize in vintage aesthetics. I’m going to explain briefly how it works the pattern in indigo and show you where you can find some clothes as well to give a varied in your clothes.
What is Wabash
Wabash is a print made by discoloration of the indigo. The pattern is created with the removal of the colour from a cloth already dyed. The base fabric passes through a discoloration process located to remove parts of the dye in the form of a pattern.
This technique is not exclusive of the wabash. It seems that the first contact of the western with the idea was in fabrics with indian as the calico and the calico. Shirts hawaiian traditional were also made in this way and the tie-dye is based on the same principle.
In the case of the wabash, the standard chosen is drawn in a roll covered by a solution slightly acidic which turns off the dye and back with the original color. The white along the dotted lines, and other drawings of the Wabash are the color “raw” of the base fabric before it is dyed.
By the way he appears in old photos, the feeling is that the manufacturers wanted to simply beautify the fabrics of work, adding a bit of style to the suits functional.
Several companies became famous by using these techniques in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The most famous was J. L. Stifels & Sons, which was active between 1835 and 1956. It was the Stifel who christened the product with the name “Indigo Wabash Stripe”
I don’t know very well what is the story behind the name but it is common to hear is that he came from a tribe north american Indian. The tribe Wabash decorated european apparel with beads and sold them to the settlers who worked in the region.
It may be that the idea of forming lines with sequences of circles, decorating work clothes, has arisen out of the interaction with the indians.
J. L. Stifel & Sons
Has not how to speak of wabash not to mention the J. L. Stifel & Sons.
The German Johann Ludwig Stifel immigrated to the United States when he was 26 years old. He lived in Pennsylvania, where he worked in a mill from the fleece and god the first steps in the textile industry.
In 1835 he set up a small dyeing in a wooden hut with an investment of $ 10 and a piece of cotton cloth. In a short time the business grew, and Johann opened a shop in calico (calico). In 1859, the children of Louis C. and William F. joined the company and was born to J. L. Stifel and sons, one of the largest estamparias of the United States.
The J. L. Stifel and sons was well known for the quality of their fabrics calicos dyed in indigo patterned, varied; polka dots, flowers and dotted lines as found on the bandanas. Were resistant fabrics and aesthetically pleasing.
During the First and Second World War the company started to provide tissues for France and khaki for the american soldiers. In 1943, almost 90% of the production of the company was linked to the war.
After the Second World War, rising costs and foreign competition have caused instability in the textile industry north american. The Stifel merged with Indian Head Mills in 1957, but had to abandon their operations.
On December 17, 1957, after 122 years of service, the Stifel & sons Calico Works closed. The factory was left standing for a few years, to catch fire on the 8th of march 1961. This site here has some historical photos and records very interesting.
All tissues Stifel were stamped with the logo above in the shape of the boot. If you want to be an owner of the original, prepare to take money out of the pocket. They are much sought after by collectors.
The giants of the world vintage around the United States and monitor the internet in search of original pieces. A Stifel the original can be sold for more than a thousand dollars, even in poor conditions.
Where to purchase an outfit wabash today
As I said, vintage clothing, or made with fabric Stifel are articles collectors. The majority of these collectors are in Japan. Some, take advantage of the findings to create reproductions of the exact fabric. The important thing for them is to achieve exactly the same weight of the yarn, the weft, the same tension in the weaving, the same blue and the same coloring of the picture.
A reproduction of these you can reach in your wardrobe for a few hundred dollars, depending on the level of fidelity. It may sound crazy, but for some customers do not just need the fabric to be dotted. They are attentive to all the details and are willing to pay for a product exactly identical to an original outfit of the last century.
The best brands to buy clothes and accessories made with fabric wabash are those specialized in reproductions of workwear. Good examples for you to research are e-Workers, Double Diamond and Joe Mccoy of The Real Mccoys, Momotaro, Freewheelers, Rising Sun, Pherrow’s, Eternal, Studio D’artisan, Sugar Cane and Mister Freedom. The Red Cloud, chinese, also has some cool stuff.
For something non-literal, loose aesthetic extremely retro, I recommend the Kapital and Soulive.
In shirts, it is excellent to combine with your raw denim. As the jacket is pretty cool, too. You can combine a pair of jeans and a pair of chino’s. It is an option as well interesting for those who only wears denim and you want to vary the top.
Is also very cool in a vest, and more attached to the past, a pair of pants in wabash is a way excellent to pay homage to days of yore. When the pattern is in the pants she already gets a little more daring. It is different, but it gives to face quietly if you are committed to visual workwear!
Check out below some images of the reproduction current, and also some clothes workwear vintage.